Want to leave Singapore? Visit Dempsey Hill

Demspey Hill is an un-Singaporean oasis in Singapore. It is tucked within the verdant Demspey Road Area, amidst old British black-and-white barracks and narrow, windy lanes. A spattering of foreign grocers, restaurants and bars--like Jones the Australian Grocer, La Foketta Italian restaurant, and Angel's Share, a rather devillish bar--have taken root here.

Hooray one might say. After all, in this consumer-crazed country, it's about time we had top foreign F&B joints, to go with all those sassy retail labels. Now I can not only look good, I can eat good too.

As I drove through the carpark, I felt as though I was rolling into an American suburban mall. Everybody was parking their cars head first. The majority of vehicles were giant SUVs. The stores' exteriors look drab, homogeneous white modules plugged into a single-story complex.

Asians are the minority here. I had lunch at Jones, and in that hour, the majority of my interactions were with Whites. There was the white waitress who showed me to my counter-top table. The delightful white child who was stuffing her face, oblivious to the world around. Her sugary orgy convinced me to buy some Persian Fairy Floss--yummy, but pricey. Then the child's mother, and the white cashier, who both agreed that the little girl should be paid to eat at Jones. The only fellow Asian I really chatted with was the eager beaver assistant in Jones' big cheese room.

About a year ago, there was talk that Samy's Curry, the South Indian banana-leaf legend of Dempsey Hill, was going to move out, as more chichi restaurants moved in. Something must have sorted itself out, because Samy's is still around.

Nevertheless, it does appear that many areas of Singapore are being culturally gentrified. As more and more rich foreigners move here, the goods and services offered are changing. If, in aggregate, they have a preference for Jones the Australian Grocer, then Mr Jones will slowly, but surely, supplant Mr. Samy.

However, the picture is very nuanced. This is not some slow drift towards Western culture. There are also plenty of, say, rich Chinese, Indians and Middle Easterns streaming in. Businesses are preparing for them. What's more, many Singaporeans are also lapping up these changes, happy that the world is finally at our doorstep.

Unlike many other developed countries, Singapore does not have a middle and upper class that professes and protects and indulges in our culture...probably because one Singaporean culture does not exist. We are a polyglot, and everything here is borrowed, copied, imported, in one way or another.

There is no simple answer to the question, "What does it mean to be a Singaporean?" Pragmatism, hardwork, obedience, filial piety, political apathy, materialism, consumerism. They all fit the bill, but then again, not quite. One thing that does link all Singaporeans is our love for food.

As Singapore opens itself up to the world, and aims to join the ranks of London, New York, Tokyo as a truly global city, the question is--how many Jones the grocers will come in, and how many Samy's will survive?

In a way, it doesn't really matter. In this age of globalisation and telecommunication, perhaps Singapore's greatest strength is simply the fact that it is not bound to one dominant culture.

Perhaps in 50 years, authentic Singaporean food will be a blend of Chinese, Indian, Malay, and French. And it'll probably taste damn good.